17 avril 2011

Piolet d'or pour l'expédition du CAB-RCT au Groenland!

 

 

 

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Invité surprise de l'édition 2011 des Piolets d'or, le CAB-RCT en a étonné plus d'un ce vendredi en remportant ce prix très prestigieux. L'équipe est récompensée pour son expédition au Groenland en été 2010 où elle avait ouvert plus de 9 nouvelles voies sur les big walls de la région.
Olivier et Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva et Ben Ditto partagent ce 19ème Piolet d'or avec les Japonais Yasushi Okada et Katsutaka Yokoyama pour leur ascension d’une nouvelle voie de 2500m dans la face Sud-Est du Mont Logan (5959m) au Canada.
Un grand bravo à eux ainsi qu'à Sean et Nico en particulier qui ont tout de même dû rester 4 jours sans grimper à Chamonix pour assurer la représentation de leur nomination.

 

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Source Belclimb

Le site du CAB-RCT
Le site des Piolets d'Or

VERTICAL SAILING GREENLAND from MARTIN Lambert on Vimeo.

 

 

THE NOMINATED ASCENTS:


Foraker (5,304m), South East Face, Dracula
Dracula forces a bold line through the diamond-shaped buttress that lies
between the 1976 South South East Ridge (French Ridge) and the 1990 Phelan
-Sharman route, False Dawn, on Foraker in the Alaska Range. It required rapid
climbing in the objectively threatened lower section and, higher, technical
difficulties of M6R AI4+ A0. Above the diamond the route joins the upper
section of the French Ridge and follows it to the summit for a total of 3,200m
of vertical ascent. Norwegian Bjorn-Eivind Artun and American Colin Haley
reached the top in 31 hours, and then continued down the Sultana Ridge and
North East Icefall Route. The round trip was made in a single push of 71 hours,
the two climbers taking no bivouac equipment, in order to test the limits of
non-stop climbing.


Logan East Summit (c5,900m), South East Face, I-TO
I-TO (2,500m, ED+ WI5 and M6) breaches the South East Face of Logan in
Canada's St Elias Mountains, a mixed wall that until this ascent was considered
one of North America's greatest unclimbed challenges. There have been
several previous attempts by strong American climbers. The route features a
number of sustained sections, and after reaching the East Ridge, Yasushi
Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama, continued another 900m to reach Logan's
East Summit. The pair made three bivouacs on the face and one on the East
Ridge, which they descended from the summit for c30km to regain their base
camp.
Vasuki Parbat (6,792m), West Face
Attempted once before, by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden, the 1,600m West
Face of the rarely-visited Vasuki Parbat in the Indian Gangotri Himalaya gives
sustained mixed difficulties of Scottish VI, 7 (or approximately M6). British
alpinists Malcolm Bass and Paul Figg reached the summit ridge after nine days
on the face, and traversed the serpentine crest over the top and down the
North West Ridge, returning to base camp in a round trip of 10 days. There are
only two previous claimed ascents of this mountain, but the first does not
seem to be recognized by Indian authorities.


Lunag I South East (6,830m), South East Face, Close the Door
The 1,200m ice and mixed line of Close the Door finishes at a small but distinct
summit immediately south east of Lunag I (6,895m) accessed from the
Khumbu but technically in the Rolwaling Himal of Nepal. French alpinists
Maxime Belleville, Mathieu Detrie, Mathieu Maynadier and Seb Ratel climbed
this fine route with two bivouacs on the face and a third on the summit.
Difficulties were IV/5 and F5. The upper section presented insecure fluted
terrain, which the team had to down-climb during their descent before making
22 rappels along the route to the Lunag Glacier.


Edgar (6,618m), East Face, The Rose of No-Man's Land
The previously untouched East Face and upper South Ridge of Edgar in
Sichuan's Minya Konka Range rises a total height of 2,500m and features an
objectively threatened approach couloir. The smaller, South East Face to the
left was the scene of a famous tragedy in 2009 when well-known Americans
Jonny Copp and Micah Dash, with film maker Wade Johnson, were avalanched
and killed in a similar, parallel couloir to the left. American Kyle Dempster and
Scot Bruce Normand, both of whom were awarded a Piolet d'Or last year,
climbed the ice-plastered East Face and South Ridge in an eight-day round trip,
with sustained difficulties of M6 and WI5 on the East Face. They made a
difficult descent of the South Ridge and complex South Glacier in generally
poor weather.


Greenland, nine new rock routes on the West and South Coasts (Cape
Farewell region)
Operating from a yacht skippered by 75-year old Bob Shepton (who completed
one of the new lines) a four-man American-Belgian team climbed nine new
routes in excellent style using only natural protection. On the west coast close
to Upernavik these were largely huge sea cliffs. Their tour de force here was
the first ascent of the Impossible Wall at Tingmiakulugssuit, where the 850m
line of Devil's Brew (British E7 6c or F7c), climbed in 10 days, is most likely the
hardest major rock climb achieved in West Greenland. American Ben Ditto,
with the brothers Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
all from Belgium would generally traverse their summits and descend via a
different route, often collected some distance from the start by their skipper.
Their feat of climbing such an array of hard, free, big walls during one
expedition has probably never previously been achieved throughout the entire
history of Greenland mountaineering.

 

 

22:26 Écrit par Xavier Bonjean dans Actualité | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0) |  Facebook |

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